The poor coat: one of the most important pieces of men’s wardrobe, but the one that is somehow overlooked over and over again. That doesn’t mean you don’t have them, of course. Rather, when you need one, you buy less with a feeling of emotion as well as boredom. One needs a coat, instead of wanting one. It is the necessary protective layer between destinations, where you ignore the winter weather and reveal the clothes you really like.
And yet the coat must function in the way that few other garments do: it must withstand the elements and be able to achieve repeated soaking; it must withstand repeated wear and tear, as this is a piece that, unlike most others, is worn daily; and, therefore, it should look more or less good with most of your clothes, elegant and casual. If you are buying this fashionable number of strike freezer with skin cuts, good luck. For everyone else – as with shoes, which must also suffer a lot of abuse: it is worth investing. It’s worth a few extra pounds if you’re buying classics like the ones below.
Buying a coat is one of the big purchases. An investment. Do it wrong and you may have spent your money on a winter sun. Do it right, though, and not only will it last for years, but during that time you’ll feel like Al Pacino every time you walk into a bar. Here’s what to think about as you navigate the rails.
When you wear it
The big one, really. If this is part of your professional wardrobe to wear over a dress during the trip, think tailor-made. Look for crombies, trench coats and maybe oversized belt options. If it’s to be around the playground while your kids go crazy, think about a suitcase or parka. It will be easy to clean the mud and the larger sized pockets will store snacks, toys, maybe a flask if it has been one of these weeks.
What is the function of the coat, apart from making you look good? A waterproof raincoat trench will keep you dry in a storm, but you’ll need to put on layers a little knit low when the temperature drops. A padded parka will insulate you all day, but you won’t want to get stuck in one on a crowded commuter train. Wool is a good middle ground. It will soak up more rain than you would expect and will also keep you warm on dog walks early in the morning.
Lots to keep in mind here, no less important your skin tone and how is the rest of your closet. The staples are gray and navy blue, both more versatile than black and safer than camel or coffee tones. It’s not that you have to play if you’re safe these days.
Primary colors are easier to take off with outerwear (see bright yellow windbreaks). If that’s a bit much, khaki green offers something different without betting much, just like with legwear. Or you can add interest to the pattern: plaids, herringbone, and stained effects disrupt congested official clothing and are predictable. street clothes the same.
This is mainly a matter of proportion. Tall guys (usually) point better at longer coat styles, with the hem landing somewhere in the middle of the thigh. This adds a horizontal break to your look. Lower men should do the opposite and opt for cropped styles unless you are wearing a dress, in which case you need something to cover your jacket.
The concealed coat / Crombie
Thanks to the Scottish weaver John Crombie, and a request from the Russian royal family for a coat suitable for use in the country, for the concealed coat. It’s called French “covered “(a shady spot or bush) with its contrasting velvet collar, pocket pocket, poacher’s inner pocket, distinctive bands of reinforcing seams on the cuff and edge and created with a smooth, thorn-proof, hunted fabric the coal.
This one-breasted concealed coat, sometimes covered with buttons, became the template for the Crombie coat, basically the same design, but with heavier wool. Both coats, for all their fancy stories, may look a little sleek, a touch of Arthur Daly, just as the Chesterfield (another coat close to the same evolutionary branch of outerwear) may look too formal. But the clean, sharp lines make this style ideal for wearing a dress – that’s why he became one of the favorites of Churchill, Kennedy, Sinatra. It also works on a sweater i jeans? About. Note: Churchill, Kennedy and Sinatra rarely wore sweatshirts and jeans.
Maybe it’s their military origins, but the peacoat always has a touch of masculinity. However, it is a coat as durable as you might wish to have. A development of short, double-breasted reefer jackets designed for 19th-century Royal Navy sailors with the goal of elevating them for official presentations, the ultimate peacoat is the one created for the United States Navy. during World War II. .
Made of a dense Melton wool, with a neck that, straight, positively capped the head, a wide double-buttoned fence – first with eight and then with six buttons – that kept the Atlantic cold from the vital organs, and two deep, from pana. -Pockets lined to warm your hands, this coat has been copied non-stop. He is an icon of good faith. Best of all, get a fairly longer cut version and it works just as well on clothing as it does on casual clothes.
Get the calf-length version with gold buttons and this is a bridge coat, also naval heritage, but hard to pull off at the pub.
The Duffel Coat
It’s hard to look at the canvas coat without thinking about Paddington’s bear. Take that out of your mind and think more about, for example, Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, a leader of the Eighth Army, a renegade of the war, and a man who loved style. The suitcase was a piece that did not belong to any service, but was associated with the Navy. He provided canvas coats to sailors and merchant sailors to take them to deck, whatever the weather.
A simple, unlined, mid-thigh-length wool coat with large patch pockets and a hood was said to be easy to fasten with a glove closure and / or when you could no longer feel your fingers. In fact, no one owned his canvas coat: it was a general-purpose item picked up by those who needed it at the time, both qualified and official, and then he went to the next man. It’s probably not a deal that works for you. But here’s a coat that works well over casual clothing. Perhaps, unexpectedly, he also looks good in a suit, especially in a dark tone, and in a man willing to wear it.
The car coat
A car coat? How, a coat designed to be worn in a car? Yes, just that. Once upon a time cars were very poorly insulated. They go even further back – in the early 1900s, when the car’s coat came out – and they didn’t even have a roof. The car coat provided the solution to getting very cold and damaging your “good” clothes underneath, and it’s sleekly simple.
The car coat is basically a thick layer of single-breasted wool, with buttons up to the neck, with a neck that can be turned against the wind. It usually has two front pockets diagonally and is cut relatively short, up to the top of the thigh, with a light A-line style and no back ventilation, precisely to make it comfortable while sitting.
It is a design of a naked coat as you could imagine: practical, functional and easy to wear, so it was, in essence, the progenitor of the mac, which is actually a car coat with a more waterproof fabric light. The car coat is probably the least complicated of all coat designs, making it easy to wear the way you choose.
Is the parka a coat or just a coat? The latter is certainly less versatile when it comes to dressing up. It’s another military piece, of course, so the design itself is flawless. First published in 1945 as part of a “cold weather system” (an unlined hooded exterior came with a warm lining), it was perfected in 1948 and again, for the Korean War, in 1951. , and then back in 1965. The latest Iteration is the beloved fishtail version of the mods and Liam Gallagher, in a faster drying cotton and nylon blend fabric, with a detachable leather trimmed hood . It fits snugly, but has belts and ropes that ensure you and the one you wear underneath are protected from the elements.
Therefore, – and the many variants on offer now: shorter, brighter, some for climbing Everest, others more for a country walk – it certainly works like a coat. The question is whether the style, certainly well-dressed, still works when you need to look a little more polished. With the right pieces (think smart-casual i casual-business, instead of three complete pieces), it certainly does.
The double-breasted coat
Like its cropped cousin, the coat, the double-buttoned coat has a naval bottom. On the deck of a ship in the early 20th century, the double-button design provided an additional layer of protection from wind and spray. Officers, knights, and gangsters brought the style to the mainland, where the dramatic proportions of the style spoke of power and elegance.
It features two rows of buttons on the front and a wide flap and neck that can be removed when the wind blows cold, this is a formal-looking coat. She is at home over a suit. This is not to say that it cannot be subverted casual dress but it is not as versatile as others on this list. For a modern prey, take a look Bond by Daniel Craig with a formidable black style with Specter Sunglasses.
Here is another example of Big Coat Energy that originated on the battlefield. The raincoat was famous during the First World War, where officers wore it, curiously, in the trenches. Cold, damp, muddy, and full of bullets and disease, the trenches were deeply unpleasant places. A good coat, and it really is a good coat, offered some respite. Then came Humphrey Bogart. He and others made it the de facto style for detectives who drink a lot, while Michael Caine gave it a bit of elegant espionage to The Ipcress File.
Today, the style remains virtually unchanged with some of its original functional features: the storm flap on the shoulder, cuff adjusters, now provide a bit of style and weather protection. You can get padded versions if you need more warmth or colorful, printed styles if you want to break with the classic tan.
Remove all the bells and whistles from a raincoat and what you have left is basically a mac. A smart, weather-resistant three-quarter style, as versatile as it is practical. (It’s not like you need to advertise your range, so these shoulder epaulettes are purely decorative anyway.) The Mac is also pre-trench. In 1824, the Scottish chemist Charles Mackintosh discovered how to make cotton water-repellent with a rubber coating. The OG raincoat was born.
It looks more or less the same today: a clean silhouette with disguised buttons and a drop-down neck and a throat latch to hold it. relax. Make sure it is cotton treated if you want the rain to run out and look for additional practical details like removable linings to do so. a coat for all seasons.